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The 2008-2011 Impreza, 2008-2014 WRX and STI (GR, GV, GH, GE) firewall is extremely thin. There probably was a reason Subaru made it this way, but it is hella inconvenient/annoying when they start squeaking, and downright dangerous when it fully fails.

The clutch and brake pedal assembly is mounted onto a bracket that is spot welded onto the thin firewall in 6X 5mm diameter spot welds. While the spot welds themselves are mostly good, and do not break at the welded joint, the thin firewall will get small 5mm diameter holes ripped off along with the welded joint through use of the clutch pedal. Forgive us for using our cars as intended Subaru (just kidding, I love you, please don't blow up on me)!

The diagnosis of this problem is very well documented. This NASIOC thread has a plethora of information on diagnosing the issue. https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2700583

Check out this video for what a really bad one looks like.

Same link has this information as well: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2700583

Here are the common fixes and the downsides of them:

1. Brace the firewall into high heaven: There are about 65,000 braces available on the market to combat this firewall issue. The common combination of braces is known as the TRIFECTA: clutch, brake master cylinder braces, and pedal assembly braces. While many cars have all 65,000 braces installed, the firewall still failed on them. The only way to fix the problem is to go to the failure point and brace the failure point - not these band-aid solutions (which cost a pretty penny, EACH). The band-aid solutions only brace the firewall locally at where they are located, not at the spot welds. The force applied to the spot welds, exerted by the master cylinder upon clutch opening, is identical no matter how much you brace the master cylinder.
2. Rivets: Drill out spot welds and replace with rivets-yikes. Some people use "structural" rivets and buy expensive tools to install them. Many are not comfortable with their clutch and brake pedal being held on with rivets, however structural they may be. There have been documented cases of failed rivets as well.
3. Good old nuts and bolts with a large flat washer: Old-fashioned nuts and bolts, and a large washer to try to spread the load over a larger area on the spot weld. However, this method means you have to either remove the dash so you can access the inside of the hardware assembly, or you'd have to use exactly 89 universals and bleed a quart of blood to achieve what you want. Not to mention all the money you need to put into the swear jar along the way. Working in the dark, upside down, with half your body twisted like a gymnast is not how a perfect Saturday afternoon should be spent.
4. Weld that F*&ker: Some people end up hating the other solutions so much that they remove the dash trim pieces, blanket half of all the interior of the car, remove all the paint from around the spot welds and firewall, and weld the bracket onto the thin firewall. Welding onto thin sheet metal is a risky move, and not everyone wants to spend even longer prepping, grinding, welding, cleaning, and painting for hours on end when the end result doesn't even yield you a single pony. This is an overkill solution that is not needed, you are better off spending your cash and time on something else.
5. Pay A Shop to Do it: Of course you can pay someone else to do the job for you, the estimated time for the job is 10 hours (quoted straight from Subaru), at about $100-$150 an hour, that's a new turbo/meth kit/set of tires right there!!

Using a drilled fastener with built in sockets, you can "fish" the fastener through the inside of the car, without ever removing the dash or any piece inside the car, keeping all the dash-retaining tabs intact.

No one want to spend hours doing this job. The kits offered allows you to do this in 1-2 hours, and you can get back to doing what do you best: researching, buying and installing more car parts.